Clam chowder with Old Bay crackers in a sourdough bowl
Nothing beats sopping up a rich sauce with a hunk of sourdough – except perhaps this: a whole roll filled with this thick, savoury seaside soup.
Michael Blizzard, avenue-restaurant.co.uk
Serves 4
For fresh clams (or use 2 x 280g tins, reserve the juice)
3kg fresh palourde clams
50g unsalted butter
2 cloves of garlic
300ml white wine
For the chowder
2 tbsp butter
1 medium onion, finely diced
2 celery stalks (reserve tender leaves) trimmed, quartered lengthwise, then sliced into 5mm pieces
3 tbsp flour
500ml chicken or vegetable stock
230ml whipping cream
2 bay leaves
450g potatoes, cut into 1cm cubes
Salt and black pepper
For the crackers
35ml water
3.5g yeast
1 tbsp olive oil
A pinch of salt
A pinch of sugar
A pinch of Old Bay seasoning
100g pasta flour
To serve
4 small sourdough loaves
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Mix all the cracker ingredients into a dough, then cover with clingfilm and leave to rest for 30 minutes in a warm place, then transfer to the fridge for 30 minutes. Roll the dough out on a floured surface as thinly as possible, and sprinkle with the Old Bay seasoning. Cut into shapes, arrange on a parchment-lined baking tray and bake for 10 minutes, or until crispy.
2 Meanwhile, if using fresh clams, rinse in cold water for 20 mins. Preheat a large saucepan to a medium heat. Melt the butter in a pan, and cook the garlic until lightly browned. Cook the clams in batches, stirring them in the garlic butter until coated. Add the white wine. Cover with a lid and cook for about 4 minutes. Discard any that stay closed. Remove and shell the others, keeping the juice.
3 To make the chowder, heat the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and celery. Saute until softened, mixing often. Stir in the flour. Add the stock, clam juice, cream, bay leaves and potatoes and stir to combine. Simmer, stirring constantly (the mixture will thicken), then turn the heat to medium-low and cook for 20 mins, stirring often, until the potatoes are tender. Add the clams and season. Cook for 2 minutes or so, until the clams are just firm.
4 Cut the tops off the sourdough rolls, and dig out the breadcrumbs (keep the crumbs and freeze for other recipes). Fill with soup. Drop the crackers into the soup before eating.
Chocolate bread and butter pudding
The buttery sweetness of the pandoro –similar to panettone, but even richer – marries breathtakingly well with the dark chocolate here for a pud like no other.
One, by Florence Knight (Salt Yard)
Serves 4-6
750g pandoro, cut into thick slices
2 tsp butter
160g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces
6 medium eggs
1 tbsp demerara sugar, plus extra for dusting
A pinch of salt
100ml whole milk
480ml double cream
1 Butter one side of the pandoro slices. Cover the base of a 18cm-long, 5cm-deep baking dish with the slices. Scatter some chocolate on top, reserving enough for the other layers. Repeat, until the bread and chocolate is used up. Press the bread down a little and set aside.
2 Beat the eggs with the sugar and salt, then add the milk and cream. Whisk well. Pour half this mix through a fine sieve over the pandoro. Press the bread down with a spoon. Cover loosely with clingfilm and leave to stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. Add more custard every 30 mins until it’s all gone.
3 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Boil the kettle. Stand the baking dish in a deep roasting tin. Add boiling water to the tin until it reaches halfway up the side of the dish. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 25-30 mins, until golden and set, with a gentle wobble.
Candied orange torrijas with bitter orange caramel
A twist of sweet candied orange and bitter caramel lifts what is essentially a Spanish eggy bread to sophisticated heights.
Spanish Flavours by José Pizarro (Kyle Books)
Serves 4
For the torrijas
16 small, medium-thick slices white bread
175g butter, softened
100g candied orange peel, chopped
3 medium eggs
120ml double cream
120ml whole milk
A few drops of vanilla extract
50g caster sugar, for sprinkling
Double cream, to serve
For the caramel
75g caster sugar
2 tbsp cold water
1 tbsp orange liqueur
2½ tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice, strained
1 First, make the caramel. Warm the sugar and water over a low heat until dissolved. Raise the heat and boil rapidly until it turns into a brick-red caramel. Carefully add the liqueur (it will splutter a lot), then plunge the base of the pan into cold water. Return the pan to a low heat, add the juice and let the caramel dissolve. Tip into a bowl and set aside to cool. This can be made ahead of time if you wish.
2 For the torrijas, cut a 7cm disc from each bread slice and spread with butter. Spoon the candied peel into the buttered centre of 8 discs. Cover with the other discs, buttered side down. Press around the edges to seal.
3 Beat together the eggs, cream, milk and vanilla extract. Gently melt the remaining butter and pour the clear liquid into a bowl, leaving behind the milky-white fat in the pan.
4 Heat the clarified butter over a medium flame. Dip the torrijas into the egg mix one at a time for a few seconds, then flip, making sure they are evenly coated and well-soaked in the mixture. Fry in the butter for 2 mins a side until crisp and golden. Drain briefly on kitchen paper and keep hot. Repeat with the remaining butter and torrijas.
5 Serve hot, sprinkled with caster sugar and drizzled with a little cream and caramel.
A salad of warm torn bread and poached egg with a parmesan dressing
In this Caesar-inspired salad, chewy, toothsome toast acts as a canvas for warm, plump poached fresh eggs, tasty salad leaves, and a salty, creamy, rich vinaigrette.
My Favourite Ingredients by Skye Gyngell (Quadrille)
Serves 4
12-16 little plum tomatoes
Salt and black pepper
60ml extra virgin olive oil
1 or 2 handfuls of mixed leaves, such as mustard leaf, rocket or young spinach, washed and dried
4 slices peasant-style bread, cut about 1cm thick
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
4 eggs
Juice of ½ lemon
8 slices parma ham
12-16 parmesan shavings
For the dressing
2 egg yolks
1½ tsp English mustard powder
1 garlic clove, peeled
Juice of 1 lemon
4 anchovy fillets in olive oil
60g parmesan, freshly grated
140ml extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp creme fraiche
1 Set the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Prick the tomatoes once and place on a baking tray. Season and drizzle with oil. Roast for 15 mins or so, until soft. Set aside. Reserve the juices.
2 For the dressing, put the yolks, mustard, garlic, lemon juice, anchovies and parmesan into a blender. With the motor running, slowly add the oil. When it is all incorporated, add the creme fraiche, and blend briefly. Season to taste. The finished dressing should fall from a spoon. If it’s too thick, stir in 1 tbsp of water.
3 Place a wide pan of salted water on to boil. Toast the bread slices until golden on both sides, then rub with the cut garlic clove. Brush with oil and season, then cut each slice in half.
4 Swirl the boiling water in the pan to create a whirlpool, then carefully break in the eggs and poach for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, toss the salad leaves with the rest of the oil and the lemon juice. When the eggs are ready, remove and drain on kitchen paper.
5 To assemble, layer the salad, toast, parma ham, parmesan shavings and tomatoes, on warm individual plates, finishing with a piece of toast. Drizzle over the juice from the cooked tomatoes. Top with the poached egg and spoon over the dressing. Serve at once.
Deep-fried scallops with mozzarella
An unusual mixture of Japanese and Italian flavours brought together in a delicate husk of panko breadcrumbs.
Everyday Harumi by Harumi Kurihara (Conran Octopus)
Serves 4
12 large scallops without coral, halved horizontally
1 ball of buffalo mozzarella
12 fresh basil leaves
Salt and black pepper
1 medium egg, beaten
A handful of plain flour
A handful of panko breadcrumbs
Sunflower or vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Lemon wedges, ponzu soy sauce, shichimi togarashi or chilli pepper, to serve
1 Slice the mozzarella into 12 pieces about the same thickness as the scallop halves. Put a slice of mozzarella and a basil leaf between 2 scallop halves. Season. Repeat with the rest.
2 Coat each scallop and mozzarella sandwich with flour, dip in egg and then breadcrumbs.
3 Heat the oil to 180C/350F (a piece of bread dropped in should brown in 30 seconds). Deep-fry the scallops until golden and crispy. Drain on a rack or on some kitchen paper.
4 Serve hot with wedges of lemon, ponzu soy sauce and shichimi togarashi.
Brown bread ice-cream
A classic way to use up any old bread you might have lying around at the bottom of the bread bin. Try it with whiskey-soaked raisins for a boozy treat.
Recipe by Rosie Reynolds, rosiereynolds.co.uk
Serves 4
75g butter
5 slices stale brown bread, blitzed to coarse crumbs
75g demerara sugar
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp mixed spice
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
For the custard base
400ml whole milk
600ml double cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp whisky, plus extra to serve (optional)
5 egg yolks
200g demerara sugar
1 Melt the butter over a medium heat. When foamy, tip in the breadcrumbs and stir for about 3 minutes, or until the bread starts to crisp. Add the sugar and spices, and stir for a further 3 minutes. Tip out on to a board and cool completely – you may need to give it a bash later to break up any large clumps.
2 To make the custard, heat the milk, cream and vanilla in a pan until just boiling. Remove from the heat and let cool for a few minutes.
3 Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale and creamy. Gradually add the cream mix to the egg yolks, stirring as you go. Pour the custard back into the pan, set over a low heat and stir until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Don’t let your custard boil or it will curdle. Remove from the heat, pour into a clean bowl, cover the surface with clingfilm and allow it to cool completely.
4 Once cold, stir in the whiskey. Decant into the bowl of your ice-cream maker or plastic container. Churn or freeze until you have a soft, creamy but not quite set texture. Fold in ¾ of the breadcrumbs, then freeze until set.
5 Remove from the freezer 30 minutes before serving, scoop into balls, then serve with the remaining crumbs and a tot of whiskey, either on the side or poured over your ice-cream.
Salt cod and bread broth
The saltiness of the fish here requires the satisfying softness of a top quality, wholesome and crusty white loaf.
Nuno Mendes, in The Edible Atlas (Canongate)
Serves 4
3 garlic cloves, bitter middle bits removed
15g coriander, leaves picked, everything chopped
Salt and black pepper
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
100g salt cod
4 eggs
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
8 thick slices of crusty white bread (not sourdough)
1 Soak the salt cod in cold water for 24 hours, in the fridge, changing the water three times.
2 With a pestle and mortar, crush two cloves of garlic, the coriander stems and salt, to taste. Grind into a fine paste, then add 4 tbsp of the olive oil and blend together. It should be very fragrant.
3 Bring the salt cod to the boil in one litre of water and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the paste to the salt cod. Cook for another 5 minutes on a medium heat. Poach the eggs separately for 3 minutes in a pan of simmering water mixed with the white wine vinegar.
4 Lightly grill or toast the bread. Rub the remaining garlic clove on to each slice, along with the olive oil and some coriander leaves.
5 Line the bottom of four deep soup bowls with the bread. Strain the broth into a jug, reserving the cod for future dishes and discarding the garlic and coriander stems, then pour over the bread.
6 Place a poached egg on top of the broth in each bowl, sprinkle the remaining coriander leaves over the top, season with salt and black pepper.
Duck livers with fried bread, bacon and black pudding
The ultimate fry-up, with white bread coated in butter and thyme. Add an egg done to your liking, and you’re golden.
Easy by Tom Aikens (Ebury Press)
Serves 4
4 duck livers, trimmed of fat and blemishes
100ml vegetable oil
20g butter
100g smoked streaky bacon rashers, diced
4 slices of black pudding, diced into 1cm cubes
For the shallot reduction
100ml vegetable oil
25g unsalted butter
150g banana shallots, finely diced
1 tsp thyme leaves
2 bay leaves
A pinch of salt
A pinch of black pepper
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp demerara sugar
250ml aged sherry vinegar
20g butter
For the caramelised onions
100ml vegetable oil
25g unsalted butter
2 onions, cut in half and sliced
½ tsp sea salt
A large pinch of black pepper
2 tsp caster sugar
1 tsp thyme leaves
3 garlic cloves, finely diced
200ml sherry vinegar
For the fried bread
50g butter
1 tsp thyme leaves
4 slices of white bread
Salt and black pepper
1 First make the shallot reduction. Melt the unsalted butter over a low to medium heat, add the shallots, thyme, bay leaves, salt, pepper and garlic. When the shallots are soft, add the sugar and fry until golden brown. Add the vinegar and reduce it by two-thirds. Stir in the butter and set aside.
2 Next, prepare the caramelised onions: place a casserole over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. Once the butter has melted, add the onions. Add the salt, pepper, sugar and thyme, stir well, then cover. Cook for 15 mins, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft. Turn up the heat and stir as they start to caramelise. Add the garlic. After a minute, add the vinegar and reduce until evaporated.
3 When the onions are nearly ready, make the fried bread. Melt the butter in a large frying pan, then add the thyme. Fry the bread on each side until golden, about 2 minutes.
4 Season the livers, then sear in vegetable oil on both sides. Add the butter, bacon and black pudding. Cook for 3 minutes; don’t overcook the livers. Add the shallot reduction, swirling it around the pan to coat the livers.
5 To serve, put a slice of fried bread on each plate, add some caramelised onions, then liver, bacon and black pudding. Serve at once.
Bread and walnut pasta sauce
This calls for a coarse, country-style loaf, which ages decently. The quantities are guidelines, adjust them to the size of your loaf, to obtain a creamy and thick, yet soft and spoonable sauce. Keep any leftovers for spreading on toast.
Rachel Roddy, racheleats.wordpress.com
Serves 4
200ml whole milk, plus a little extra
80g coarse country bread, crusts removed, torn up
150g shelled walnuts
1 garlic clove, peeled
40g parmesan, grated
5-7 tbsp light extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
For the pasta
500g pasta (spaghetti, tagliatelle or fettuccine)
300g fine green beans
1 In a small pan, warm the milk gently until it is tepid. Remove from the heat. Add the bread to the pan. Leave to soak for 10 minutes.
2 Crush the walnuts and garlic. Combine with the bread. Blitz to a thick, coarse cream. Add the olive oil and parmesan. Beat firmly. Taste and season, then set aside.
3 Cook the beans and pasta until al dente.
4 Put ¾ of the walnut sauce in a warm bowl. Thin the sauce with a little of the pasta cooking water. Mix the pasta and beans with the sauce, adding a little more water if needed. Divide between four warm bowls. Serve with parmesan and a glass of Pigato.
Bread sauce
This steadfast sauce adds substance and depth. Serve with poultry or beef.
Recipe by Kate Calder, the Cook team
Serve as a side dish
700ml whole milk
1 onion, halved
1 tsp cloves
2 bay leaves
100g soft white breadcrumbs
A large knob of butter
Salt and black pepper
A grating of nutmeg
1 Simmer 600ml of the milk, the onion, cloves and bay leaves for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes.
2 Strain. Then return the liquid to the pan along with the breadcrumbs and butter. Over a low heat, stir until the crumbs have swollen and the sauce is thick. Season to taste.
3 When ready to eat, stir in the remaining milk and reheat. Sprinkle nutmeg on top to serve.
